Sarah and I both agreed as we hiked out last spring that we would be back, and next time we would make it all the way to the Colorado River, where Havasu Canyon meets the Grand Canyon. We made reservations for the same time frame during Sarah's spring break. This time we were armed with Keen hiking sandals and neoprene wetsuit socks for the water crossings, so we didn't have to keep taking our boots off.
After a pre-dawn departure from Phoenix and a 5 hour drive, we set off from Hualapai Hilltop. Sarah began by setting a brisk pace that I immediately struggled to keep up with! I'm supposed to be the one with the long legs, but Sarah seems to be able to hike forever without stopping.
C'mon, keep up!
The hike in is all downhill, but the main portion after the initial descent is along a dry river bed, with lots of loose sand and rocks.
Decked out in my best REI-chic
The canyon walls gradually get higher
After hustling through the less-than-photogenic village of Supai, we made it to the first falls in less than 3 hours.
Another few minutes, and we are at that iconic viewpoint, looking down on Havasu Falls. You've all probably seen photos of it in magazines, but I can't emphasize enough that all the pictures do not do it justice.
It's been a dry winter, so with no risk of flooding, we chose to camp right between two forks of the creek. Made for great relaxing water sounds to drift off to sleep to. We brought the tent because of the chilly overnight lows, but I also brought my hammock to relax in, both at the camp and at the falls.
The next day we set out early, since the hike to the Colorado and back is about 16 miles. The morning light was perfect for some photos of Mooney Falls.
Happy couple
The canyon was more in bloom than this time last year. The thick vines that covered part of the canyon floor were turning green, and the cottonwoods were shedding in full force.
Lots of people hike in to see the waterfalls, but most only make it to Beaver Falls, about 2 miles past Mooney Falls. For most of the hike, we didn't see anyone else. It was a great feeling to have the beautiful canyon to ourselves.
The first water fording. The hiking sandals were certainly a good idea for this trip.
They canyon gets deeper and deeper...
The trail was tough to find at times. I doubt the trail beyond Beaver Falls (when it enters the National Park) is maintained, so the "trail" is just the route most traveled along the river. There was a lot of scrambling over and around, but one is certainly not going to get lost.
Me not keeping up with Sarah
Though the water and the canyon walls were constantly with us, it always looked a little different every time we stopped to take in the views. The river could be narrow and swift-moving, or open up into large pools with plateaus and waterfalls.
As we got closer to the Colorado, the walls narrowed and the creek widened. The trail climbed up the sides or the canyon, affording some great views. Just before we got to the Colorado, we saw the first people we had seen all day. A group that was rafting the entire length of the Grand Canyon, from Lee's Ferry to Lake Mead, had tied up at the confluence of the rivers. They looked really, really sunburned, as they were on day 16 of a 21 day trip.
Another bend of the river, and there it was--the shocking blue of Havasu Creek ran into the dark green of the Colorado River, and we were in the vastness of the Grand Canyon.
Looking up Havasu Creek
The trail here climbed over what had become a slot canyon
Sarah takes it all in...
On the return leg the changing light and opposite direction of travel gave us new views all the way back.
Trailing behind Sarah
The cascading Beaver Falls
Coming up on Mooney Falls
The next day we didn't have any agenda or anywhere to be, so we split our day between Havasu and Mooney Falls. At each one, we slung up the hammock and took in the views and sounds of the falls. If it sounds unbelievably relaxing, it's because it was!
Seriously, how many people get to take this picture?
Yep, life is good!
On the way down to Mooney Falls, Sarah had to get a look over the edge from the top. I nervously stood back ready to grab her.
View from the hammock down at Mooney Falls. Again, life is good!
Hammock selfie!
The next day was the hike out, which thanks to Sarah's pace-setting, we did in about the same time as the hike in, except this was all uphill. I was wiped out by the top, but we recharged with some massive milkshakes at a spot in Seligman.
Everything was in bloom. The cottonwood covered the ground like snow.
If only I could be in the shade the whole way up...
Our return trip to Havasupai was every bit as memorable as our first, if not more so. We were so glad we hiked all the way to the Colorado, and took in the entirety of the canyon. If you ever get a chance to visit this place, don't pass it up.
Up next in June, we will take our first trip to the Sierras, and then hike the entire Zion Narrows. Stay tuned!