At over 1.2 million acres, or just over 1,900 square miles, the Grand Canyon is arguably the heart of Arizona outdoor enthusiasts' adventures. My own adventures have taken me here many times for long hikes and cold nights of camping out beneath the dark starlit sky.
Overlooking the Grand Canyon
Wikipedia defines "canyoneering" as descending into a canyon using various techniques, including non-technical hiking. While that may be debatable by the technical outdoor enthusiasts among us (climbers and rapellers), I am pleased to count my adventures into the Grand Canyon as canyoneering in the broadest sense of the word. That's not to exclude the possibility of someday climbing in some of the remote parts of the canyon.
My first trip to the Grand Canyon was quite unadventurous, as I simply walked along the shabby asphalt path, which leads around the South Rim Village and Visitor's Center, and didn't descend down Bright Angel or South Kaibab trails. It wasn't until I met Dan and realized we both had an affinity for hiking in beautiful places that I took the leap (figuratively, of course) down into the depths of this colossal natural wonder. Our first summer together, May 2011, we decided to do a rim to rim hike with three of our friends.
Sunrise over the canyon
This was the first of probably many more rim to rim hikes to come. Starting from the South Kaibab trailhead, the hike is approximately 25 miles, one way. It is a bit longer if you take the Bright Angel trailhead. It took us almost exactly 12 hours to hike -- we started at 500 and ended at 1700. We even had the chance to stop at a gorgeous waterfall (pics to come) near the beginning of the ascent towards the North Rim.
Starting out on our rim to rim
Canyon hiking is somewhat of an acquired taste since, in this case, descending the mile depth of the canyon can be taxing on the knees. This says nothing about climbing back out of the canyon on the other side. Also, planning a rim to rim is important, since you need to have some plans as to getting back to the South Rim -- which, by the way, is about a 5 hour drive. Our first Rim to Rim took us hiking 25 miles and then driving 5 hours to get to a place where we could sleep for the night. After 12 hours of strenuous exercise, I'm surprised we made it in one piece. We had to stage a car at the North Rim ahead of time in order to make that drive, and by the time we got to Tusayan, AZ, we were exhausted and hungry.
But in the end it's really worth it! The views are dramatic, and on clear mornings, when you can see the other side of the canyon, a mile away, you find yourself lost in the vastness and stark contrast of the ancient tributaries' imprint, curving in and out the other side like capillaries of a Leviathan.
Morning Sun over the trail
Our group at Phantom Ranch near the Colorado River
Once you've hiked to the bottom of the canyon, you can fill up on water, eat lunch and enjoy the juxtaposition of the bluish-green Colorado River and the red rock backdrop of the canyon walls.
Hike along the Colorado River
The flattest part of the trail lies between the Bright Angel and Cottonwood campgrounds. It's a fairly long stretch of trail that takes a good chunk of the day to hike. Parts of it are in the shadow of the steep walls (depending on the time of year you hike) and other parts are out in the open desert (sunscreen!). But, in my opinion, the most beautiful parts of the canyon are the parts where most of the five million people per year who visit the canyon don't see very often. This includes Rainbow Falls...
Dan and I hiding behind the waterfall
...and this includes the North Rim itself. Contrary to what some might think would be the easier way to hike, we hiked the rim to rim trail starting at the South Rim and ending at the North. This means, we had to hike 1000 ft higher than where we started on the South Rim. But there is something fulfilling about hiking in pine trees, aspen and other temperate climate flora in the early evening, when the sun is setting and the heat of the day starts subsiding, that makes the North Rim stand out against the surrounding desert (i.e. most of Arizona). Maybe it is just my native Coloradoan coming out and making me giddy since it's my element, but it did help me ascend the last mile and a half of the steep, dusty trail faster than I would have had I not been so stimulated. So, the south to north decision ultimately proved to be a good one for us. The South Rim also gets more sun....so doing North to South would mean planning around the sun's schedule and ultimately not hiking during the hottest months.
Under the waterfall
Looking back from the North Rim
When the final stretch of trail is before you, all you can think about is reaching the next switchback. But the reward at the end of it all is a spectacular view of the South Rim in the pronounced glimmer of the setting sun.
But more than that, you get a overwhelming sense of pride at completing this 25 mile trek through multiple climates, climbing over 6000 ft in elevation, in one day.